Monday, June 29, 2009
THE SILK ROAD: TURKEY AND ISTANBUL 2011
A Grand Bazarr Carpet Shop
Turkey is one of the world's most amazing coluntries. People ask me where among my travels most surprized and delighted me and I always name Turkey. Where else offers a magic carpet of textiles so rich, I covet them all, or a historical landscape so multilayered that every town has a story centuries long? And I have yet to mention the food, which is simply amazing, and the scenery that spans the mysterious fairy chimnies of Capadoccia right to the sparkling shores of the Mediterranean Sea (or the Agean or the Black Sea). Nowhere in the world have I seen so many bead stores overflowing with Baltic amber, lapis, and a myriad of rare and lovely stones or such innovative and creative jewellers. Istanbul's Grand Bazarr alone is a world of wonders and that's not counting the city's Egyptian Spice market where I stocked up on fabulous teas and spice packets and textiles which have entertained our senses ever since. My husband was so inspired, he went home and built himself a Turkish barbecue grill I affectionately call 'the kabobulator'.
Civilization upon civilization have thrived in this strategic location spanning two continents and at least a half dozen trade routes --spice and silk, lapis lazuli and amber. And yet, this amazingly ancient city, once Constantiople, just happens to be simultaneously modern with a friendly and social population eager to share life stories over cups of coffee or apple tea. The shops swell with edgy fashion while the spice markets go on as they have for eons. Heaps of rich color line the streets in carpets, shawls, bags, scarves -- a dizzying array of color and texture for the fiber lover. In fact, this city also appeals to the lover of history, art, jewelry, fiber, color, food and shopping not to mention the lover of love itself. Every street is a discovery, whether it be strolling down a cobbled alley to explore bead shops or a trek through the warren of wonders in the Grand Bazarr. Here is a voyage of the senses across thousands of years and multiple cultures.
But we can't go all the way to Turkey for just one city so how about adding Capadoccia, Epheseus, and towns on the Meditteranean famous for weaving, pottery and dyeing silk? How about a cooking course? How about knitting something rich in Turkish hues while staying right in the heart of this magical country? Oh, and all along the way, markets, demonstrations of the local textile culture and, yes, even knitting a 'Silk Road Wrap' with me (pattern and yarn included -- shipped to you in advance). Take a deep breath and read on:
This year, we're partnering with a Turkish tour company, Talisman Tours. On tour begins in Istanbul where we will meet a lovely hotel overlooking the Bosphorous.
DAY 1, Saturday October 22nd. TRAVEL TO ISTANBUL: Meet at our hotel Barcelo Saray in Istanbul for a welcome supper. This will be a travel day. Flights to Istanbul operate from nearly every hub in Europe. Find your least expensive gateway city from North America (we usually fly from London but this trip will be leaving from Rome) and book your connection separetly to Istanbul which is usually much cheaper.
Istanbul, the most surprising, amazing, history-rich, and color-infused city in the world. Where else can you eat lunch in Europe and drop over to Asia Minor for desert? Where else can you stroll streets so jumbled with ancient riuns that builders just accommodate the pieces into existing structures? 'Yes, that's a Roman pillar back there and, um, I believe that stump you just maneouvered dates from the Ottoman Empire.'
Hagia Sophia interior
DAY 2, OCTOBER 23rd, ISTANBUL: Today we take a walking tour with our guide to Istanbul's wonders: Topkapi Palace, Hagia Sophia, Hippodrome, Blue Mosque, and the Underground Roman Cisterns. These are all relatively close. The Hippodrome , a chariot racing track a bit like NASCAR of the Ancients, is just opposite the Hagia Sophia, for instance. Be prepared to gasp with inspiration. Bring your camera so you can feed on your inspiration later. The Tokapi Palace alone has excited art across the ages with its lavish tiles and lyrical tile designs. We'll dine at a local restaurant that evening (food in Turkey is safe and hygenic, by the way. The Turks are fussy about these things. This is not like Morocco).
The Blue Mosque
DAY 3, OCTOBER 24th, ISTANBUL:
So, today after breakfast, we're off to the Egyptian Spice Market and the Grand Bazaar and a textile market to shop and browse. Later that afternoon, we'll relax at our hotel to begin our Spice Road knitting project. Dinner at our hotel.
DAY 4, OCTOBER 25th, CAPADOCCIA. Today we leave Istanbul for a short flight to Cappadocia, the famed underground city of the ancient world. We'll visit the famous underground city including the 'Monk's Valley' with the fantastical mushroom-haped chimneys and other locations where the Christians hid against Roman soldiers. Amazing. Awe-inspiring and a testement to human ingenuity partnered with a natural wonder.
Capadoccia
DAY 5, OCTOBER 26th, CAPADDOCIA
Today we take a short bus ride to explore an open air market, learn all about the carpet history and culture of Turkey and have a little wine-tasting. Have you ever tried Turkish wines? This is a prime growing region for the unsung heros of liquid delight. We will end the day with dinner at a local restaurant and a little knitting (depending on how much liquid delight you decided to bring along with you).
A culture of textiles
DAY 6, OCTOBER 27th, CAPADOCCIA
Today we'll drive to Avanos, a town know from ancient times for equisite pottery and alabaster carvings. We'll even learn to make our own just for the fun of it as well as meet local crocheters. Our hotel is a fabullous boutique hotel built right into the cliffside. Check out our hotel in Capadoccia by Googling the Yunak Houses Hotel. Imagine staying at a place this amazing and inspiring. Think amazing views, courtyards and that otherworldly sense of being back in time, at least up until you go to your modern bathroom.
Elke Peve Resort Hotel, Capadoccia
DAY 7 OCTOBER 28th: KUSADASI: Today we leave Capadoccia and head for the Mediterranean where we'll bathe in sunshine and blue, blue sea. Our hotel is close the the town so you'll have an option to explore a little on your own. That first afternoon, we'll explore the local cuisine with a cooking class followed by more knitting.
DAY 8 OCTOBER 29th :KUSADASI: Here we see one of the jewels in the crown of Turkey: Epheseus. Here's a hint: Antony and Cleopatra briefly hung out here, Cleopatra's sister died on it's steps. Among the best-preserved Greek ruins anywhere, this was the former trade center for the ancient world and the location for the Temple of Artemis, Godess of wisdom. Yet, many remarkable ancient women made their way here, including the Virgin Mary who reputedly spent her last days here.
The Temple of Epheseus
DAY 9: October 30th, Sirince Village, Istanbul: This morning we'll visit the beautiful little Sirince Village with its shops and historic houses before flying back to Istanbul later in the day.
DAY 10: October 31st, Day 10: Departure from Istanbul
Inside the Grand Bazarr
Let me just mention the food. Did I expect Turkey to compete with my unending love affair with all things edibly Tuscan? Imagine my wonder when I sampled dish after dish of the most incredible food -- succulent roasted chicken, lamb, beef, spiced by a mild yet totally new-to-me flavor, grilled and marinated yummy things served in the 'mesas' (like tapas in Spain) mini dishes, the kabobs, the fresh baked flat breads, the sweets. Wait, the sweets. Okay, stop here for a moment. You've heard of Turkish Delight and nougats? Well, wait until you experience the vegetable-based-vanilla-creamy-tasting something or other (Amal knows the word) that mimics ice cream but tastes far better and appears in countless delectable, post-meal yummies. I crave it as I write. As in Italy, here food preparation is an art taken seriously as a gift shared among friends and family. A delicious meal can be safely had at any street corner INEXPENSIVELY and you can actually drink the water here, too. We brought home bags of mixed spices which continue to flavor every grill we've savored since.
Jewelry/bead Shop
Edible wonders in the Egyptian Spice Market
The Empress
Okay, the shopping. Had I known in advance that I could buy beautiful clothing for a fraction of the price paid in either Europe or North America, I might have saved my pennies for a wardrobe change. High quality silk tops can be had in nearly every shop. Cashmere? Hey, the steppes where those goats roam aren't that far away. And the bead shops alone made all other my beading forages pale by comparison -- truly. Deep in the Grand Bazarr, I shared apple tea with a man who brought together diverse cultures in his fabulous creations as he passed on to me the best stalls to buy amber, lapis, silver, gold (Turkish gold is the deep 24 karat variety), aquamarine...oh, be still my beating heart.
As for textiles, Turkey's reputation is justly deserved. Here loomed, woven, embroidered and hooked textiles unfold arround one in a dizzying display of glorious art. I actually shed tears of wonder in the carpet hall of the Islamic Art musuem. That rich, Persian red! The Sultan's silken robes (silk with the most modern-looking designs I'd seen on anything so old)! I spent hours fingering the textile collection in one shop where the shopkeeper kept unfurling hand-painted silks ('Look, that's calligraphy', my friend,Amal, would say), cushion covers, bags made from old carpets, table clothes...I'm hyperventilating here. I brought back silken cashmere scarves that I use nearly every day. Okay, so I went a little crazy and bought....12?
If you travel anywhere at all in 2011, make it Turkey. Come join me in October to knit/crochet, explore, shop, learn and feast. The autumn climate is lovely, the shopping and exploring divine.
COST per person double occupancy 3,700, Single supplement $900
The excursion includes:
- 9 nights accomodation double occupancy at three four-star hotels: 4 nights in Istanbul, 3 nights in Cappadocia and 2 nights in Kusadasi.
- All transportation within Turkey by air-conditioned bus plus three domestic flights within Turkey by Turkish air
- Baggage handling from hotels plus tips
- All tours and entrance fees
- English-speaking guide
- Knitting workshops
- Sessions on what to look for in traditional Turkish carpets and crafts, a cooking class, a pottery-making session
- All breakasts and dinners.
Not included: customary tips to drivers and guide, beverages and flights from your home city to Istanbul
A common sight
Leather knitters outside the Grand Bazarre
I am interested in joining the trip to Turkey. Could you please let me know what the arrival time at and departure time from the hotel in Istanbul are so I can look into flights.
By Kathryn Petrie on 2011 07 27
What a wonderful read- I thoroughly enjoyed it.We are going to Turkey for 3 weeks in September, off course also to Istanbul and Cappadocia. I have been quilting and embroidering for 30 years and recently started scrumbling( freeform knitting and crochet)I am looking for a quilt shop in Istanbul but can't find one.Can you help?Good luck with your tours- they sound like a lot of FUN! Regards, Margaret le Roux, Cape Town, South Africa
By Margaret le Roux on 2011 08 14
Margaret, I live in Istanbul, and know of one quilt shop on the Asian side in Uskudar, run by Selma Kenter http://www.tsdpatchwork.org/index-en.asp The Textile Arts Association has lovely site which explains a little about the 'whole cloth' types pf quilts made here - historically patchwork quilting is a more recent craft. Most older neighborhoods (including the area north of the Grand Bazaar) have shops hand-quilting layers of bright satin solids and prints with thick cotton batting, in the bedding style common to rural Anatolia. An interesting process to see, though the results can be startlingly elaborate. The Military Museum here has amazing appliqued tents of the sultans. Enjoy your time here!
By Catherine Bayar on 2011 08 14
I have been to many times In Istanbul. Istanbul really is a wonderful city with both historic and natural beauties. A few times I went to the kapadokyaya. earth formations and underground cities there is also an interesting visit.
By Carrot cake on 2011 08 27
I shared apple tea with a man who brought together diverse cultures in his fabulous creations as he passed on to me the best stalls to buy amber, lapis, silver, gold (Turkish gold is the deep 24 karat variety), aquamarine...oh, be still my beating heart. Shaggy Rugs
By livia9 on 2011 11 04
Sorry to hear that you'll not be coming to Turkey in 2010. Istanbul promises to be exciting this year. Great to see you on TAFA and hope we someday get the chance to meet up since we have many passions in common!
By Catherine Bayar on 2010 02 17