Monday, June 29, 2009

ISTANBUL 2011

A Grand Bazarr Carpet Shop

Istanbul, the most surprising, amazing, history-rich, and color-infused city in the world. Where else can you eat lunch in Europe and drop over to Asia Minor for desert? Where else can you stroll streets so jumbled with ancient riuns that builders just accommodate the pieces into existing structures? 'Yes, that's a Roman pillar back there and, um, I believe that stump you just maneouvered dates from the Ottoman Empire.'

Civilization upon civilization have thrived in this strategic location spanning two continents and at least a half dozen trade routes --spice and silk, lapis lazuli and amber. And yet, this amazingly ancient city, once Constantiople, just happens to be simultaneously modern with a friendly and social population eager to share life stories over cups of coffee or apple tea. The shops swell with edgy fashion while the spice markets go on as they have for eons. Heaps of rich color line the streets in carpets, shawls, bags, scarves -- a dizzying array of color and texture for the fiber lover. In fact, this city also appeals to the lover of history, art, jewelry, fiber, color, food and shopping not to mention the lover of love itself. Every street is a discovery, whether it be strolling down a cobbled alley to explore bead shops or a trek through the warren of wonders in the Grand Bazarr. Here is a voyage of the senses across thousands of years and multiple cultures.

The Blue Mosque

Hagia Sophia interior

Sailing the Bosphoros

Inside the Grand Bazarr

Let me just mention the food. Did I expect Turkey to compete with my unending love affair with all things edibly Tuscan? Imagine my wonder when I sampled dish after dish of the most incredible food -- succulent roasted chicken, lamb, beef, spiced by a mild yet totally new-to-me flavor, grilled and marinated yummy things served in the 'mesas' (like tapas in Spain) mini dishes, the kabobs, the fresh baked flat breads, the sweets. Wait, the sweets. Okay, stop here for a moment. You've heard of Turkish Delight and nougats? Well, wait until you experience the vegetable-based-vanilla-creamy-tasting something or other (Amal knows the word) that mimics ice cream but tastes far better and appears in countless delectable, post-meal yummies. I crave it as I write. As in Italy, here food preparation is an art taken seriously as a gift shared among friends and family. A delicious meal can be safely had at any street corner and you can actually drink the water here, too. INEXPENSIVELY. We brought home bags of mixed spices which continue to flavor every grill we've savored since.

Jewelry/bead Shop

Edible wonders

The Empress

The voyager

Okay, the shopping.  Had I known in advance that I could buy beautiful clothing for a fraction of the price paid in either Europe or North America, I might have saved my pennies for a wardrobe change. High quality silk tops can be had in nearly every shop. Cashmere? Hey, the steppes where those goats roam aren't that far away. And the bead shops alone made all other my beading forages pale by comparison -- truly. Deep in the Grand Bazarr, I shared apple tea with a man who brought together diverse cultures in his fabulous creations as he passed on to me the best stalls to buy amber, lapis, silver, gold (Turkish gold is the deep 24 karat variety), aquamarine...oh, be still my beating heart. As for textiles, Turkey's reputation is justly deserved. Here loomed, woven, embroidered and hooked textiles unfold arround one in a dizzying display of glorious art. I actually shed tears of wonder in the carpet hall of the Islamic Art musuem. That rich, Persian red! The Sultan's silken robes (silk with the most modern-looking designs I'd seen on anything so old)! Amal and I spent hours fingering the textile collection in one shop where the shopkeeper kept unfurling hand-painted silks ('Look, that's calligraphy', Amal would say'), cushion covers, bags made from old carpets, table clothes...I'm hyperventilating here.

If you travel anywhere at all in 2010, make it Istanbul. Come join Amal and myself in November 2010, the year Istanbul is officially crowned the European Cultural Capital, to knit/crochet, explore, shop, learn and feast. We've chosen early November to escape the crowds and heat while still enjoying the last of the late autumn climate.

 The excursion includes:

• 7 nights accomodation double occupancy at the luxe Hotel Sultanahmet's Palace Hotel located on the axis where East meets West. With an eclected style reflecting Byzantine and Ottaman elegance, the hotel is modern, light-filled and comes with every convienience.  Overlooking the famed Blue Mosque, we'll be located in the heart of Old Istanbul close to major attractions for independent or small group foraging like multiple trips to the Grand Bazarr and local historic attractions. Even the museums are close by.
• Tours of the Blue Mosque, Hagia Sophia, Topaki Palace plus a cruise down the Bosphorus, entrance fees included
• Informal strolls to places of interest such as the famed Roman Cisterns and Belladrome, depending on interest
• Knitting and crochet workshops
• A session on what to look for in traditional Turkish carpets and crafts
• All breakfasts, 2 dinners and 1 lunch

Depending on interest, we may organize post-tour excursions to Troy and Cappadocia.

Due to the fact that Istanbul's been declared Europe's 2010 cultural center and the city packed with equally high prices, we've decided to postpone this excursion for one more year.

A common sight

Leather knitters outside the rand Bazarre

From the entry 'ISTANBUL 2011'. Sorry to hear that you'll not be coming to Turkey in 2010. Istanbul promises to be exciting this year. Great to see you on TAFA and hope we someday get the chance to meet up since we have many passions in common!

By Catherine Bayar on 2010 02 17