Tuesday, September 29, 2009

KNITTING IN TAOS, Part 1

Glory unfolds against the tiles of Mabel Luhan House, Taos

Taos is an absolutely perfect location for a knitting retreat and I celebrate Carrie and Sheri, owners of the Knitaround yarn store in Ann Arbor, Michighan, for finding such an inspired location. They bring a group here every year, mostly to sit and knit in this glorious location on projects of their own choosing. This year they invited me and I found Mabel Luhan House so incredible that I booked it myself for a knitting retreat starting May 7th in Santa Fe and arriving in Taos May 9th -15th. Details will be posted on my website under Santa Fe in the trip category in November but, meanwhile, mark those calendars!

Did you know that Taos has been drawing artists and strong women throughout the century? Georgia O'Keefe and the Ghost Ranch connection is already widely known but did you also know about Millicent Rodgers and Mabel Luhan herself?  I spent my quiet moments in Taos familiarizing myself with these strong personalities. Mabel was quite a lady, arriving as she did in the early 1920's as a socialite escaping from the burdens of too much money in New York (?) with her second husband in tow. Enchanted by the location, she decided to build herself a house and while teaching knitting in the nearby Taos Pueblo, happened to meet the then-chief, Tony Luhan.

Mabel's gates

Sparks flew. A serious attraction erupted with Tony suggesting the ideal spot for Mabel's house and proceeding to perch himself a teepee close by from which he could beat his drums until she joined him for…um…well, somekind of intimate peace treaty. Very intents, in any case. Mabel's attraction to the chief was hardly a passing fancy, however. She eventually bought off both prior spouses (Tony had a wife at the time, too) and the two of them married into a union that stayed true until they died—very romantic, regardless of the scandal it caused.

Mabel's book, A Winter in Taos, kept me occupied on many an evening as John and I nested high in the original house in Tony's room. Mabel's room is right down the hall, in case you're wondering. Every person needs their own space, after all, and I figure that Tony would never be too comfortable amid Mabel's velvet quilts and womanly details. His room, on the other hand, is very manly, everything having been left in the original state, with Indian symbols on the wall and the authentic sleeping porch beyond. Here he used to entertain members of his tribe from the neigbouring tribe and discuss business by the kiva fireplace. Almost every room in the house comes with one of these fireplaces and though the temperatures were too warm in September, I'm hoping to try them out in May.

Mabel's writing room, now a bedroom

And then there's the bathroom completely enclosed in windows painted by none other by DHLawrence, a frequent guest at Mabel's house. Imagine sitting in your bath surrounded by light-infused paintings. Now consider  your bathroom the target of countless inpromptu tours led by your eager and connival husband, bent on showing the wonders of the lodge to all who asked, including the public. Imagine yoyrself settling into a private moment in said bathroom only to be interupted by perhaps the fourth or fifth knock on the door (accompanied by rattling the latch—these poor souls didn't realize they were trying to enter a private bathroom) while your husband merrily revealed the history. It didn't matter if I were in the tub or fluffing my hair or whatever, tour time reigned. Good thing for the lock. And,  yes, said public also traipsed through our bedroom and often Carrie's and Sheri's down the hall, occupying as they were Mabel's own room.

DHLawrence bathroom, exterior view (I was probably in there at the time)

There's something so magical about knitting with a cadre of like-minded people in beautiful and inspiring locations. More to come next posting…