Saturday, April 11, 2009

JANE GOES SHOPPING (WITH A FEW OF HER FRIENDS)

Beads by the basket, Morocco

Am I allowed to admit that I love shopping? It seems such a cliche, this woman-loves-to-shop bit, but I prefer to think that our gender-geared acquisition lust is based on sound biological and evolutionary premises. Aren't we the foragers of the species, after all? While our Neanderthal mates of yore went forth to bring home the mammoth bacon, we women took off into the bushes to hunt for prime roots and tubers. Seeking is in our blood. Wired right into our DNA. So, if I tell you that I shop with a passion that far exceeds my wallet you'll understand that I am merely fulfilling my biological imperative, right?

One of the many souk tassel shops

Right, so once upon a time I factored the world's great western cities as the best places in which to forage—New York, London, Paris—but now I have gone east and seen the light. Western shopping is all very tame, a little too antisceptic for my tastes. I love the exotic. Nothing beats souks and bazaars for variety, abundance and pure excitment.

On our trip to Morocco last month, most of my voyagers couldn't stay away from the winding, color-infused streets of the ancient medina nor did I expect them to. We are women (though many are blessed with avid acquisition-orientated men). Shopping can even reign over knitting. It doesn't deter us when the lanes are congested by foot traffic, donkeys, and the occasional moped, we are collectively hooked. We can't get enough. Don't want to even try (oh, wait—just saw my bank account. I'll amend that: I must try).

Madeleine and the Berber earrings

In any case, the best things to seek in Morocco are carpets, jewelry, beads and argon oil, along with leather, textiles, candles, inlaid wood and iron sconces/lamps. The pure ambundance is overwhelming with the insistence of the shop keepers equally so. We just smiled a lot and said 'no thanks' while penetrating deeper into the shopping warren in search of something rare and wonderful.

Looking for the pure essence of that now special anti-wrinkle 'discovery', argon oil? Here's the land of its birth. Though once made with the help of goats' digestive systems now the kernels are farmed by other methods. Me ,of the driest of skins have tried all manner of lotions and potions and Morocco produces the best. Think rose, olive, argon and other special mixtures; think thick, creamy and all natural. Also very inexpensive: $8.00 for a large jar of anything.

Paula, Jane, Aziz, Amal & Claire foraging

Each one of us found our own kind of rare and wonderful. For me, it was Tuareg jewellry. This mid-Saharan nomadic tribe, known for their leather and silver embellishments, had several specialists in the souks and, finally, after two trips and many reconaissance missions, I found a man from Mauritania who had become an expert, Aziz. From him I bought several pieces of silver including silver inlaid ebony and silver inlaid leather necklaces (pictures to follow). It is so satisfying to learn about the symbolism behind each peice, the compass cross symbolizing desert navigation, the use of carnelian to keep the blood healthy.

A Tuareg trader will always bless a piece purchased from him to bring the wearer safe travels. I still wear the piece I bought on my first trip —a traditional silver and carnelian necklace—because a gentle Tuareg shopkeeper gave it his blessing. Does it truly act as a talisman? To me, yes. If you don't keep your mind open to possibilities, you'll never truly travel no matter how far your journey takes you.

Pat bought the kitchen sink—two of them, actually. In brass—but here

she wears her new necklace

We've booked the last week in March 2010 for the next Moroccan excursion. Details and pricing to follow. Hope you can join us.